Dangay Port, Roxas (Mindoro) - Pinamalayan

17/05/2015

Continued from part 1, Caticlan to Roxas.

Disembarking the ferry from Caticlan, passengers are greeted by buses going directly to Manila. Most passengers hop on and are on their way. I am momentarily tempted to get on, but I decide to get my bearings and get left behind. In the immediate vicinity there are a few inns and guesthouses, as well as local places to eat and an internet cafe, where I go in to look at a map.

One island in particularly had already caught my eye, mainly because I could find so little information on it. Google Maps (in 2015 - it has been updated now), shows the island as Maestro de campo and Concepcion. After speaking to locals, I learn its local name is Sibale.

Even the locals' knowledge on the island seemed limited, and this intrigued me. How could an island of Sibale's size exist, but be so mysterious? It's one thing if it's there but without inhabitants. But could it have visitors and residents, as locals and a few websites suggested, without any substantial information available? I decided that if I could find a route, I'd go check it out.

The woman working at the internet cafe where I'd settled tells me that a little town called Pinamalayan serves as a hub for a lot of trips to islands, and given its proximity to Sibale, I'd probably be able to find a boat going there. I decide to give it a try the following morning, and if unsuccessful, head to another island.

This does mean I have to leave the numerous islands in Romblon for another trip - I figure they seem for accessible than Sibale. There are ferries from Roxas to Odiongan for example, a route that takes about 4 hours and costs 350 PHP.

I personally do not recommend staying in the Dangay Port area unless it's for a few hours, before catching another ferry. Pros are that the area is very calm during the day time and it feels safe. Security guards are on post near the ferry, and the locals are warm and eager to help you get to your next destination. A few minutes of walking and you'll find yourself on a beautiful, eerily quiet countryside walk.

Unfortunately at night the tranquil town transforms into several open-air KTV hubs where drunkards sing deep into the night, badly and loudly. I found places to be overpriced for what they were - extremely basic rooms with no aircon or running water go for about 500 pesos. A small apartelle right next to the dock looks much nicer than the other options. Rooms will set you back about 1,500 pesos, but I doubt anywhere is safe from the piercing cry of the drunk KTV man.

I end up crashing at a place called King James for 400 PHP (ensuite, fan, weak WiFi, no running water) and would not stay there again. I was the only guest, and while the few people working there were kind, it was simply too loud for me. An impressive sound system in the lobby (quite literally right outside my room) blared a horror movie late into the night, which was simply not conducive to a relaxing night's sleep as a solo traveller.

Dangay Port, Roxas (Mindoro) - Pinamalayan

Getting from Dangay Port in Roxas to Pinamalayan is easy. Take a trike to the bus terminal station of the town (from the port area, it is about 2 km away, 10 minutes and costs around 20 PHP). Once there, look for (or ask) for vans heading to Pinamalayan. Locals are familiar with the town, as Pinamalayan has boats to get to many islands in the area (Romblon, Corcuera, Sibale, Marinduque, etc.).

The vans are white and marked UV Express, and their final station is marked as Calapan. You can look for them at the station, or flag them down (as I did) in Pinamalayan. It costs a 100 PHP set fare for the 90 minute journey. The vans are comfortable and air conditioned (overly so in my opinion, so bring a sweater), and go through Mindoro's scenic countryside (right).

From Pinamalayan, grab a trike and ask for the island you want to go to - he will take you to the correct port. For me it cost 10 PHP for a shared trike to the port. From there, a daily cargo and passenger ferry leaves for Sibale every day. I was lucky - that day's boat was leaving within the hour. I walked around, bought a few snacks, and then returned to the port for the 1pm departure.

Bring whatever food / drink you need, as there is nothing on the boat.

NEXT: Pinamalayan to Sibale: a deserted paradise for the willing adventurer

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